Pro Tips

 

            Although there are notable exceptions, trout streams within two hundred miles of Yellowstone National Park are considered large by most fly fishing standards. Typically, they flow through open terrain where wind is a daily factor. Add to this, the fact that these are highly popular waters that receive constant angling pressure during most of the year. The practice of catch and release has the inevitable effect of producing extraordinary elusiveness which increases as the trout grow older and larger. And of course, these are the objective of the selective trout hunter.

            Handling the complexities of the Henry’s Fork, Missouri, or Snake is dependent upon numerous factors but effective casting rises above all other requirements. As primarily a wading angler, I love to hunt the big water where the quarry carries spots and fins rather than fur or antlers. With minor shame, I confess to seeking only large fish in most circumstances, and the game begins when a desirable target is located. There is always one best angle from which to take the shot, and although we do not always have a choice, the ability to identify the ideal casting position is a distinct and worthy skill. And a stealthy approach to that location is no less important. Depth, speed, and complexity of the current will influence the stalk as will also the speed and direction of the wind.  Options also become limited when a trout is holding close to the bank. Unlike the wind, sunlight will not influence the actual execution of the presentation. However, nothing is more certain to alarm a trout than a shadow moving overhead. When planning your approach, always remember to factor in the direction of the sun.

            When given a choice, I prefer to make my approach from the side and slightly downstream from a large surface feeder, and with the current moving from right to left. A positive curve cast will place the fly in the trout’s window of vision ahead of the leader while keeping the line well out of view. This method of presentation requires considerable practice and is usually limited to forty feet or less. In most instances, the positive curve cast is executed side arm with a tight loop and extra line speed that over powers the cast. An abrupt stop of the stroke applied at just the right instant will kick the fly and leader to the left in a pronounced curve. With the proper control, the amount of curve can be as long as the entire leader or as short as just the tippet. This control comes from the tip of the rod which must be fairly stiff in order to develop the kind of line speed needed to make a perfect presentation.

            An upstream wind can aid a positive curve cast that can be delivered with less line speed but which is also dependent upon precise tip control for suitable accuracy. Too much flex in the tip will disrupt the aerial mend that allows the wind to induce a positive curve in the line.

            A curve cast from a similar position but with the current moving from left to right requires a completely different maneuver if the angler is right handed. Simply described, a negative curve cast is almost an underhand lob. With the rod held vertically, allow the back cast to dip slightly then sweep the line beneath the tip with an under powered stroke that lifts the line upward and to the left producing an upstream curve. Stop and drop the tip when the fly is in line but upstream of the target. This will kill the energy of the stroke and produce what is essentially an incomplete cast because the leader and part of the line are not allowed to straighten before the fly arrives on the water. Precise accuracy is not a general characteristic of the negative curve because it is often hampered by wind. However, with practice it becomes a useful tool for covering a sizable amount of water with a fly first drift.

            When the location of the trout allows an approach from the side or somewhat upstream, a reach cast is a fairly easy way of obtaining a fly first presentation. Begin this cast by starting the forward stroke toward the point on the water where you want the fly to arrive then move the rod tip to the upstream side. The fly will travel on its initial path while the line follows the rod tip upstream. Quick snap mends that add slack and length to the drift will enhance the effectiveness of this method of presentation. A reach cast to the right is utilized when the current is flowing from right to left. And of course the left hand reach is used when the situation is reversed. As in all casts, line speed is adjusted to wind force and the distance to the target.

            Perhaps the most favored presentation among anglers of limited casting skill is made from a position nearly directly upstream from the objective. And while it can be relatively effective, there is a downside to becoming dependent upon this method. It is seldom that any trout will tolerate an angler’s presence within it’s window of vision, and it is never a good idea to allow the line to pass over the fish either in the air or on the water. Both of these negatives can come into play when the fly is presented from upstream. This is especially true in extremely shallow water or when the angle to the target is close to being directly downstream where the line can not be led far enough away from the drift line to avoid alarming the trout. However, I concede to times when a directly downstream presentation is the only option, but usually assume it will be a one shot deal.

            A careful approach is always a key element regardless of the angle from which the cast will be made. Clumsy wading practices inevitably spell defeat by sending trout warning sounds or water disturbance ahead of your advance. Each step must be taken with slow deliberation. Feel the bottom with each foot as you move forward making certain of stability before placing your full weight on that foot. A successful stalk of fifty feet or less may take five minutes or more to complete, and it is here that many battles are lost without ever making a cast. Sturdy felt soled wading boots are a mandatory requirement for a stealthy approach and are well worth a little added expense.

            A downstream presentation becomes much more logical in water at least thigh deep, and should not exceed a forty five degree angle unless absolutely necessary. It pays to utilize any obstruction such as a dense weed bed or large rock that can shield your approach and shorten the casting range. Bending low over the water will lower your profile and allow a closer approach than were you to come in standing straight up. As a rule, you should expect the cast to be considerably longer when positioned anywhere upstream of your objective. Personally speaking, anything beyond forty feet is considered to be a long cast when presenting the fly to a surface feeding trout. And of course, the difficulty of proper execution increases in proportion to the length of the cast. However, a long downstream presentation can often be accomplished with a cast that is considerably shorter than the actual distance to the trout. And this is undoubtedly what makes this approach so attractive to those of minimal advantage with a fly rod.

            It is not uncommon to witness some success from anglers who get by with a rather weak delivery of the fly that arrives well upstream from the target but also beyond the correct line of drift. The fly must then be pulled into the desired position by dragging it across the surface. Assuming it is still floating, the fly is allowed to proceed downstream by dropping the rod tip and feeding slack into the drift with a series of mending actions. Hopefully the trout has not been put off by all the disturbance created directly upstream. Because all slack in the leader is removed prior to the beginning of the drift, this technique is not reliable when the fly must follow the subtleties of a complex current in order to arrive at the target in a natural manner.

            A much more precise and dependable way of delivering the fly from an upstream position is to use a strong casting stroke that generates more line speed than is needed to reach the target. Allow the full length of the line and leader to straighten well above the water then pull back sharply with the rod tip. This will cause the line to recoil back against the rod and the leader will fall in loose curves to the surface. Some time and a little effort spent in perfecting this technique will enable very acceptable efficiency in placing the fly where it needs to be and with enough slack to avoid drag. Using this method, it is possible to shorten the length of an otherwise long cast by depositing the fly on the water well upstream but in line with the feeding position of the fish. A series of crisp mends with the rod tip will allow extra line to be fed into the drift as earlier described. With the correct technique and the right rod action, it is not uncommon to maintain a fly first drag free drift for thirty feet or more. This is especially valuable in extremely shallow water where an approach to less than fifty or sixty feet will most certainly spook your objective. If the presentation is not accepted, always remember to allow the fly to drift well beyond the trout’s position before leading it away from the drift line with the rod tip. Strip the now submerged fly back upstream until you are certain that the motion of lifting the line for the next cast will not disturb the fish.

            It is my opinion that success in fly fishing is directly proportionate to the length of the cast. And the one angle most likely to allow a close approach is from directly behind the fish. For many anglers, however, a straight line cast made directly upstream can be quite intimidating despite its fundamental simplicity. I think this is because this presentation is highly dependent upon accuracy and does not allow for manipulation of the fly’s position after the cast or mending to improve the drift.

            An upstream presentation is performed with the rod in a vertical position and the stroke is made directly in line with the flow of the water. Aim the cast slightly to the side of the target allowing only the leader to pass overhead. Accuracy is more important than a long drift when fishing upstream. In slow water, a distance of two feet beyond the rise is usually sufficient to allow the fish to see the fly and intercept its drift. Faster water may require as much as double that distance. However, a fish that is holding close behind surface obstruction such as an exposed weed bed may require that you literally put the fly on it’s nose. A tippet longer than thirty inches will hinder this kind of accuracy especially when wind is a factor. Allowing the leader and line to arrive on the water before the fly will induce premature drag. This can be avoided by stopping the rod during the delivery stroke at precisely the right instant to permit the entire leader to straighten just above the surface thereby minimizing the effect that wind can have on the placement of the fly. Drop the rod tip at this point to soften the impact.

            An upstream cast that angles across the directional flow of the current creates a significant increase in the difficulty of creating a natural presentation of a dry fly. A fly cast straight upstream will be carried in a line that does not conflict with the direction of the flow. Conversely, a cast made even slightly across the current will encounter quick drag as the flow pushes against the leader causing the fly to move sideways rather than following the current directly downstream. A partial cure for this malady is to utilize a positive curve cast with a significant upstream mend. However, this technique can only be implemented from one side of the fish and is limited to a very short drift. A more versatile alternative is to use a check cast in conjunction with a longer tippet of forty to fifty inches in length. A tippet of inordinate length always carries the potential for diminished accuracy but there are situations when this is the best way to go. A vertical casting stroke that keeps the line as parallel to the water as possible is best applied when making a check cast. Slightly over power the delivery then stop the rod sharply as the leader straightens about four or five feet above the surface. The leader will spring back toward the rod tip then pile in loose curves on the water with more slack than is usual. Pulling back with the rod tip will exaggerate the recoil bringing even more slack into play if desired. The result will be a considerable delay in drag producing tension on the leader as the fly drifts downstream. The check cast can be effective anytime a difficult current is working against you.

            “Fishing the Clock” is a descriptive term for the ability to present the fly from any angle to a fish in moving water. Attaining this level of competence is dependent upon mastering a variety of casting techniques that will allow you to effectively counter the host of obstacles that often present themselves. Of equal value is the learned ability to recognize the factors that determine the best position from which to present the fly. And of course, the advantage of minimizing the length of the cast by employing strategic wading practices can not be overstated.  

            A wide shallow river like the Henry’s Fork often provides a variety of choices from which to present the fly. This is because you can usually wade freely to virtually any point desired. And while complexity of current, instream structure, and water depth will frequently influence how the fly is presented, wind is the most common determining factor.

            Over time, each of us should develop a confident relationship with a specific fly rod. This is based upon personal preference and individual casting style in addition to the conditions most frequently encountered on the water we fish. After more than fifty years, I have developed a preference for an 8’ 6” to 9’ rod possessing a fairly quick tip and stiff butt section. In fly rod terminology, the action would be considered medium fast with a continuous taper. Because casting the line and presenting the fly are not necessarily synonymous, I prefer this rod design for it’s ability to accommodate the variety of presentation angles that must be dealt with on any given day on the water. Precise tip control is key to developing line speed without the need to double haul, and this is where I find a problem with a slower action rod. Line speed generated by a compact stroke emphasizing quick recovery of the tip is not dependent upon hauling the line or loading much if not the entire length of the rod. In short range casting, I am looking only to load the tip of the rod and rely upon a fairly long leader of from sixteen to eighteen feet to bring delicacy into the presentation. Flex in the rod increases in proportion to the distance to the target as will the length of the stroke. When dealing with the wind or in gaining accurate presentation at a distance, I find a slow action rod to be a handicap. The same is true when attempting a high line speed delivery that transfers enough energy through the leader such as is needed when executing a positive curve cast. Slow tip recovery impedes my ability to get the fly quickly to a feeding fish that is moving quickly out of range.

            Many devotees to slower action rods rely upon a weight forward line despite it’s tendency to limit control both in the air and on the water. Most weight forward lines are ninety feet in length with a front taper of thirty feet. The remaining sixty feet is level line of a thinner diameter and is intended to make shooting the cast much easier. A problem arises when more than thirty feet of line is needed to present the fly in a controlled manner. Unless you are double hauling, a functional cast can not be made when the front taper or head is outside the rod tip. In this condition, it is impossible to execute anything other than a straight line delivery with little control over how the fly arrives on the water or the amount of slack that can be induced. Mending for the purpose of anything beyond extending the drift can not happen when only the level portion of the taper is in the guides. However, a weight forward taper usually works adequately for any distance under thirty feet plus the length of the leader.

            The belly of a double taper line is its longest and thickest part. No one expects a double taper to shoot with the ease of a weight forward taper. But in contrast to it’s counterpart which is specifically formulated for distance casting, a double taper is generally superior when line and loop control are the foremost requirements, and this is my choice for dry fly fishing on moving water. A strong butt section of the rod is needed to comfortably carry enough line in the air for a long cast and is also helpful in lifting the line from the water in preparation for the next cast. A skilled caster can easily shoot an extra fifteen to twenty feet of double taper if the butt section is strong enough to really drive through the delivery stroke. A double taper also facilitates the sophisticated mending techniques often needed to manipulate the drift of the fly when it is on the water.

            My personal fly rods are not the excessively rigid tools preferred by some who specialize in distance casting but instead carry the characteristics of subtle and uniform flex throughout the length of the rod. A four weight line covers most of the waters I frequent and I use it at least seventy percent of the time.

            In stating the preceding opinions it is imperative that the reader understands that they are specific to my personal perception of dry fly presentation. Others may disagree and challenge my statements, which is something I anticipate and accept. Among those things that make fly fishing so unique and appealing is that it is a sport of individuals. And because of this, we are each free to participate in our own way, satisfying only our personal preference and desire. And this is as it should be.